A New Chapter at Lanvin: Tradition Meets Modernity in Paris
PARIS – When Peter Copping took the helm at Lanvin last January, few predicted the quiet but resolute transformation that would unfold on the runway. His debut Fall 2025 ready-to-wear presentation at Pavillon Gabriel was, by industry accounts, a “return to elegance” and a “declaration of intent” for the world’s oldest continuously operating couture house.
Embracing Jeanne Lanvin’s DNA
From the outset, Copping rooted his vision in the vast heritage of Jeanne Lanvin. Drawing inspiration from her famed Art Deco–inspired interiors and lovingly curated archive, he revived signature elements: sweeping capes, ribbon-draped evening gowns, and the iconic robe de style silhouette . A standout gold lurex cocktail dress, layered lace aprons, and mirror-embellished trousers radiated craftsmanship and historical resonance .
Voguish elegance breathed anew as Copping imbued each look with structured comfort—flannel mixes, sculptural sleeve treatments, and velvet overcoats—offering a collection that whispered demi‑couture more than conventional ready-to-wear .
Menswear Reimagined
Lanvin’s second chapter under Copping showcased bold strides in menswear. Among the 62 looks, a silver T‑shirt embroidered with mirror detailing stole the show. Tailored coats in incarnations for both men and women reflected a cohesive spirit: “The man has a feminine side to him,” Copping noted .
Feedback was warm. Critics praised a “solid debut” for introducing a sophisticated menswear arm while maintaining the hallmark Lanvin identity .
Wood, Ribbon & Archival Reverie
In conversation with Vogue, Copping revealed his deep dive into Lanvin’s world—perusing Jeanne’s own books on folk costumes, 19th-century fashion, and global textiles . He spoke of “parachute‑silk” nods to the ’80s, ribbon-stripe motifs, and pencil skirts inspired by mid-century elegance.
This archival excavation, while reverent, never felt trapped in the past. As Elle observed, his collection “never felt bogged down by history” .
Resort 2025 and Spring’s Fluidity
Earlier in June 2024, the Resort 2025 capsule quietly signaled Copping’s approach: fluid drapery, olive and beige palettes, and a botanical Art Deco print nodding to Jeanne and Marguerite’s summer afternoons by the Côte d’Azur . With this low-key rollout across Galeries Lafayette and Cannes galleries, Lanvin subtly reclaimed its Parisian retail roots .
Business Under Pressure
The Lanvin renaissance faces headwinds. Acquired by Fosun in 2018 and later listed in 2021, the group aims for €264 million in 2025 revenue . But a production gap between Bruno Sialelli and Copping hurt earlier projections . With markets unsettled, Copping acknowledges the challenge: “I am quite happy to start this during a slowdown. Because for me there’s only one way, and hopefully that’s going to be up” .
His strategy? Create wardrobe essentials—luxury cocktail pieces, gender-fluid tailoring, transformative outerwear—and leverage Lanvin’s global network of 30 stores to rebuild direct-to-consumer momentum .
What’s Next
Next season’s promise rests on Copping’s ability to weave Lanvin’s extensive story into fresh narratives. Forum comments recognized a “great starting point” but called for deeper narrative cohesion. Industry watchers agree: after reviving, it’s time for breakthrough.
Why This Matters
Lanvin’s evolution under Copping offers a template not only for legacy brands but the wider luxury sector. In a climate wary of flash and excess, reaffirming heritage with creativity, wearability, and precise design becomes central to contemporary luxury. For Lanvin, it’s more than revival—it’s a cultural reaffirmation: that history, craft, and Parisian soul remain marketable, especially when subtly modernized.
Final Thought Lanvin’s journey from Jeanne to Elbaz, Sialelli, and now Copping reads like a richly layered novel. Each creative—heir to her global vision—has contributed new chapters. Now, Copping’s debut is both prelude and promise: a house grounded in its past, yet lifting eyes toward tomorrow. As Paris pauses to watch, expectations are clear: more than nostalgia, a renewed narrative of relevance awaits.
– Jacques Moreau –
